Black Diamond Micro Stopper Review
Our Verdict
Our Analysis and Test Results
Likes
These are the most durable micro nuts in the review. Their heads are much more durable than the DMM Brass Offsets and about the same as the Metolius Astro Nut. Their burly cables are far tougher than those on DMM Brass Offsets and slightly tougher than those on Astro Nuts. We like the tall heads, which give more confidence, especially while free climbing above them. More surface area gives them more holding power, especially in softer stone. The aggressive curved taper also fits parallel sided cracks well as the nut gets hung up on irregularities (a good thing).
The Micro Stopper has two excellent orientations: each side of the nut is quite different than the other. This gives many placement options and in this respect they barely beat out the Astro Nut and are a lot better than the DMM Brass Offsets. Like all other mini nuts in the review, they feature color coding around the swage of the nut to help with size identification.
Dislikes
Many of the advantages of the Micro Stoppers have potential downsides as well. The shape, while helping them hold in parallel sided cracks, makes them difficult to place in old pin scars and flaring placements typical on many aid climbs. Though they offer an offset orientation, it isn't nearly as effective as the DMM Offsets in pin scars. Also, the longer faces of the heads, while adding more holding potential, often make them hard to fit in tiny placements where a shorter-faced nut would go. For less secure placements, they are not as soft and so don't grab the rock as well as others. This is more of a problem in featured or heavily textured rock.
Best Application
These are suitable for aid climbing but a better choice for free climbers who want to have a couple micro nuts on their rack at all times. When paired with the DMM Brass Offsets, you will have a nut for just about every crack type.
Value
While not much cheaper than any of the micro nuts we tested, they are the most durable, which makes them a great long-term value.