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If you want to get off the ground when climbing, you're going to need a rope — but which one? We can help. For this review, we bought 13 of the best ropes available today and tested them side-by-side, building on the over 40 different models we've tested and reviewed in the past decade. This comparative, head-to-head review describes which ropes handle the best, last the longest, weigh the least, and offer the most versatility. This info has come at the expense of lots of rope-stretching falls by our expert gear testers, who certainly aren't shy about taking the whip. We test ropes year-round on our local sport crags, at famous multi-pitch destinations, and in the big mountains, all so we can bring you the very best recommendations, regardless of your favorite climbing discipline.
The Mammut 9.5 Crag Classic takes the cake again this year, thanks to its superior handling, impressive durability, and versatility across nearly every climbing discipline. This rope handles like a dream right out of the factory, and doesn't stiffen or soften over time. The sheath is durable, adding to the lifespan of your investment. And, this rope can be used for every type of climbing, from the gym to the crag to multi-pitch climbs. It even costs less than most of the competition. For most users, it's the perfect rope.
Our complaints are few, but it's worth noting that at 59 grams per meter and 9.5 millimeters in diameter, there are lighter and skinnier ropes out there. If you are looking for a specialized rope for hard multi-pitch and alpine climbing, you are better off with a thinner and lighter rope like the Edelrid Swift Eco Dry. If you don't opt for their bi-pattern version, you simply get a dyed middle mark, and we noticed that it wears off fairly quickly. Overall, this is an excellent all-around rope that can handle any type of cragging and should last for a long time.
The Mammut 9.5 Crag We Care Classic is an eco-friendly version of our Editors' Choice, and comes at an even lower price. Besides the lack of a bi-pattern option, this rope performs the same as the Crag Classic. The main difference here is the use of leftover yarns in the sheath, which means that less plastic goes to the landfill from the production of Mammut's other ropes. This rope handles easily, last a long time, and is highly versatile across a wide range of climbing styles from big walls to sport leads.
On the heavier side, we wouldn't recommend this rope for climbers heading deep into the backcountry for big alpine climbs. Even for hard multi-pitch routes, we'd counsel users to grab a lighter rope. And, since the rope is constructed with leftover yarns from other production runs, you don't get to choose your exact color, and no bi-pattern sheath is available. Despite these minor shortcomings, the Mammut 9.5 Crag We Care Classic is the best bargain we've found for a quality rock climbing rope. If a bi-pattern rope is a must, the blue and pink Edelrid Tommy Caldwell Eco Dry ColorTec 9.3 is the one to reach for.
The Beal Opera has been a favorite rope of alpine climbers for years, and for good reason. This is the lightest single rope on the planet, at 48 grams per meter of length. This allows users to shave significant weight off their packs when hauling gear deep into the backcountry and up big approaches. In addition to the weight savings, this rope provides supple handling, a triple-use rating, excellent dry treatment options, and enough versatility to be used on multi-pitch climbs closer to civilization.
The major downside to this rope is its lack of versatility. At 8.5 millimeters in diameter, it isn't useful for much besides alpine climbing and multi-pitch climbing. The skinny diameter produces more stretch than thicker ropes, meaning we can't recommend it for single-pitch and gym climbing. It also has less sheath material to absorb wear and tear. When we reserved this rope for alpine missions, it lasted a long time. But when we used it day after day at the crag during our intense test period, it wore out faster. If you are in the market for a rope for alpine climbing to supplement your crag rope, this is a great option.
The Edelrid Tommy Caldwell Eco Dry ColorTec 9.3 features the brightest, most distinct bi-pattern color scheme that we've ever seen. One half of the rope is blue and the other half is pink. It's never been so easy to identify the middle of a rope. This is important when lowering climbers on long single-pitch routes, when setting up rappels, and when communicating with the leader on long, wandering alpine pitches. Aside from the sheath pattern, this rope has wonderful handling, a light weight, and decent durability.
Our only gripes are its high cost and a dry treatment that seemed to attract higher quantities of dirt and grime. We can't fault the dry treatment too much, however, because it's an eco-friendly formulation that's free of harmful PFCs. This rope is versatile for most climbing styles, but it's a bit stretchy for top-roping and aid climbing. If you're looking for a bi-pattern rope that can take a beating, the Edelrid Tommy Caldwell Eco Dry DuoTec 9.6 is thicker and more durable.
The Beal Joker is our favorite rope for multi-pitch climbing thanks to its low weight, smooth sheath, and Unicore construction. From feeding slack to the leader on long, desperate pitches to pulling the rope easily through the device when belaying the second, this rope performs better than any other when swinging leads high off the ground. The slick handle of this rope helps us save energy on big days. It also has Beal's proprietary construction that binds the sheath to the core, making coreshots less disastrous, which reduces mental weight on exposed routes.
The major downside with this rope is that it is too slippery and skinny to be used for extended bouts of top-roping. It doesn't bite as easily as other ropes in assisted braking devices, and the sheath wears out relatively easily. It's versatile enough to be used in regular alpine climbing, but gram-counters will notice that this is heavier than the lightest alpine ropes by about two-thirds of a pound (300 grams). If you climb a lot of multi-pitch and want a rope that will make your days on the wall easier, this is the perfect rope to add to your quiver.
The Sterling Aero 9.2 Xeros is a veteran rope that has been on the market for years, and offers versatility for every style of climbing. At 9.2 millimeters in diameter, it is skinny enough for hard sends and long routes, while also providing enough durability for heavy-duty use. From single-pitch top-roping to hard redpoints and alpine climbs, this rope can do it all. With smooth handling, triple-use certification, and a great dry treatment, we bring this rope on long climbing trips where we might encounter a little bit of everything.
This rope is most at home at the sport crag and on multi-pitch routes, and it sacrifices some performance at each end of the use spectrum. It's a lot heavier than the skinniest alpine ropes, like the Edelrid Canary, and it isn't nearly as durable as workhorse-style ropes like the Beal Booster III. Still, it shows acceptable performance in these disciplines, and excels in the areas that most users prioritize. For that reason, we recommend this product if you only want to buy one rope, but want to practice a variety of climbing styles.
The Sterling Velocity Xeros 9.8 is our favorite rope for heavy use, such as working projects, repeated top-roping, or big-wall climbing. Its large diameter spreads out wear and tear over more material, leading to a longer lifespan. It's also easy for newer climbers to use in belay devices, since the relatively large diameter produces more friction when catching a fall or lowering compared to skinnier ropes. With an effective dry treatment and multiple sheath design options (including bi-pattern), this rope comes well-featured.
This rope is on the heavy side, but that doesn't surprise us with its large diameter. This also limits its versatility for alpine climbing and long multi-pitch routes, where a lighter rope is preferred. That said, it's a great first climbing rope, and a good addition to the quiver for users who need a durable rope for heavy use. For climbers in the market for a light and skinny rope that can still be used across a wide variety of activities, we recommend the versatile Sterling Aero 9.2 Xeros.
The Velocity XEROS has a unique dry treatment that enhances water resistance and avoids abrasion.
Credit: Jack Cramer
Compare Products
Rope weight might no be an issue at single-pitch crags close to your car, but it can be a huge factor when making a clip at the top of a long, taxing route.
Credit: Jack Cramer
How We Test Climbing Ropes
As you might expect, we climbed a lot with each rope during our testing period. The process starts by researching all available models, then whittling down the choices based on specs, user reviews, and personal experience. Then, we purchase each rope at retail price. Once we have the ropes, we uncoil them and take them to the crag. We tie in, clip quickdraws, take whippers, coil, re-coil, and rappel on each rope all day long. We hand out our ropes to other experts to gather more opinions. See our full How We Test page to learn more about our testing process.
Finally, we assign each rope a score from 1 to 10 in five different rating metrics:
Handling (30% of overall score weighting)
Durability (25% weighting)
Versatility (20% weighting)
Features (15% weighting)
Weight (10% weighting)
Why Trust GearLab
Our lead tester for this review is Jeff Dobronyi. He has over twelve years of experience as an IFMGA-certified Mountain Guide, leading climbing trips from Boulder, Colorado to the desert cliffs of Moab and Red Rock Canyon to the Alps. His quiver includes ropes of all lengths and sizes, and he wears out three or four ropes per year on single-pitch, multi-pitch, alpine, and ice routes all over the world. Jeff relies on ropes to keep him off the ground nearly every day of the year.
He is joined by GearLab testers Jack Cramer, Andy Wellman, and Cam McKenzie Ring. Together they share nearly 75 years of climbing experience. All have climbed El Cap multiple times, but on more casual days they have different interests. Jack is a former member of Yosemite Search and Rescue who has found himself more focused on ice and alpine climbing in recent years. Andy is a perennial climber who tests ropes on climbing trips around the world. Cam is another former member of Yosemite Search and Rescue who now calls Las Vegas home. Red Rock sandstone and the neighboring limestone crags are her closest testing labs.
We jugged lines all summer long in Yosemite as part of the testing process.
Rappelling down a 4-pitch route with the Beal Joker.
Lowering from a sport lead in Colorado on the Edelrid Tommy Caldwell Eco Dry Duo Tec 9.6.
We have tested ropes all over the place to find out which are the best.
Analysis and Test Results
We analyzed the performance of each rope in this test and determined the strengths, weaknesses, and best uses for each. Then, we compared and contrasted the performance of similar competitors. Here, we break down the evaluation metrics and discuss the top performers in each.
What's the Best Value?
With different lengths, features, sheath patterns, and dry treatments, it can be hard to determine the best deal for a climbing rope. In general, climbing ropes are priced about the same, so it's best to select a rope based on your needs rather than on your budget. However, there are some attractive exceptions to this statement.
The Mammut 9.5 Crag We Care Classic costs a lot less than other ropes on the market, and outperforms them all for a versatile, durable single-pitch rope.
Credit: Jack Cramer
The Mammut 9.5 Crag We Care Classic costs significantly less than the rest of the competition, making it a no-brainer for climbers looking for a good deal on a climbing rope. It is useful for single-pitch climbing (lead or top-rope), gym climbing, moderate multi-pitch, and even aid climbing and ice top-roping. It isn't as useful when weight matters, since it's a bit heavier than the lightest ropes. Still, it's hard to pass by this affordable, high-performance option.
The Mammut 9.5 Crag Classic is a top choice for serious climbers, and costs less than most other options.
Credit: Cam McKenzie Ring
The Mammut 9.5 Crag Classic is nearly the same as the Crag We Care Classic, but it comes in more traditional color options and has a bi-pattern option. This is our overall favorite rope, and it's also a lot cheaper than nearly every other rope on the market.
All of the Beal ropes are priced a bit lower than their competitors, which is good news for the consumer. The Beal Joker is our favorite rope for multi-pitch climbing, and the Beal Opera is our top choice for alpine climbing. The Beal Booster III isn't our top choice for a workhorse rope, but it is priced a lot lower than similar competitors, making it the best workhorse rope for users on a budget.
All of the Beal ropes are good, and they're a bit less expensive than the rest of the competition.
Credit: Jeff Dobronyi
Handling
This metric assesses how it feels to use each rope. We evaluated each model based on its suppleness and the ease of coiling, climbing, clipping carabiners, tying knots, and belaying. Handling is a rope's most important characteristic and is usually the first thing most climbers will start talking about when you ask how they like their rope. The ropes that handle best are those that are smooth, supple, and easily bent. This makes tying knots, clipping draws, and belaying easier. Lower performers either felt stiff and inflexible or quickly broke down into an abrasive skin wrecker that nobody wanted to grab. Although thinner ropes are often a bit easier to manipulate than thicker ones, they can be harder to grip or belay with, so the differences often balance out.
The Beal Opera offers the best handling out of any rope on the market. It happens to be the skinniest single rope as well. The sheath feels smooth and easy to grab while clipping carabiners, and it doesn't get any more abrasive over time as the sheath begins to fuzz. It pinches easily, but doesn't feel too soft or squishy, and it's easy to tie knots. We also love how smooth it feels when we pull slack through a belay device while belaying a follower. Compared to similar diameter ropes, the Opera has a lot less resistance.
The Beal Opera (green) has less friction when running over carabiners and through belay devices than other ropes.
Credit: Jeff Dobronyi
We also love the handling of the Mammut 9.5 Crag Classic and We Care Classic. Both ropes are supple and smooth, despite their above-average diameter. The Beal Joker, Sterling Aeros 9.2, and Petzl Volta all handle smoothly and pleasantly.
The Sterling Aero 9.2 Xeros is soft and supple, which makes for a rope with great handling.
Credit: Jeff Dobronyi
It can be dangerous to generalize, but we found that each brand's ropes have similar handling. In particular, the Beal and Mammut ropes seem to feel the best, while Edelrid's sheath weave often feels abrasive. We do like the sheath feel of the Edelrid Tommy Caldwell Eco Dry ColorTec 9.3, but their other offerings don't feel as good in the hand, like the Edelrid Swift Eco Dry and Canary. Sterling's ropes often feel soft, even too soft.
The Edelrid Tommy Caldwell 9.3 Eco Dry has a tight weave and a smooth sheath feel that is nice on the hands.
Credit: Jack Cramer
Durability
Ropes are our lifeline when hanging in vertical terrain, so it's natural that durability is a primary concern of climbing rope shoppers. Sheath wear, in particular, is commonly experienced by climbers who use their ropes day in and day out, caused by the rope rubbing over sharp edges and crystals during normal use. Some sheaths resist fuzzing more than others. Occasionally, ropes suffer core damage, but this is usually due to misuse around a sharp edge, rockfall, or any other uncommon event, and we normally don't attribute coreshots to manufacture differences. That said, a durable sheath can prevent core-shots by maintaining a thick and protective layer around the core. Interestingly, dry treatments can also slow down sheath wear.
Unsurprisingly, the thickest ropes in the test showed the greatest durability. A thicker rope has more material to absorb wear and tear, and a larger diameter means that a rope lays flatter against the surface of the rock, further distributing contact with sharp edges. The Beal Booster III and Sterling Velocity XEROS 9.8 both showed impressive durability over our test period, and are great choices for a workhorse rope. Daily top-roping sessions are no match for these ropes, and we'd also recommend them for aid climbing.
The Velocity XEROS was among the most durable ropes we have tested to date, with a dry treatment and 9.8mm diameter.
Credit: Jack Cramer
The next best ropes for durability are in the 9.5 to 9.6 millimeter range. The Edelrid Tommy Caldwell Eco Dry DuoTec 9.6 has impressive durability and a tight sheath weave that feels impervious in the hand. Over time, we noticed that the rope became more cord-like and stiff, but the sheath showed no signs of wearing out. The Mammut 9.5 Crag Classic and We Care Classic are perennial favorites for top-roping, single-pitch cragging, and multi-pitch mileage.
The Edelrid Tommy Caldwell Eco Dry DuoTec 9.6 showed promising durability thanks to a super-tight weave that doesn't allow the sheath to snag easily.
Credit: Jeff Dobronyi
It's worth mentioning that all of Beal's ropes are made with Unicore Technology, which binds the sheath fibers to the core. Usually, the sheath is a tube of woven material, completely independent from the core underneath. In the case of significant sheath damage, the weak sheath of the rope could slide off the bottom of the rope like a sock coming off a foot. Unicore ensures that severe sheath damage won't end up in rope failure, since sheath damage can't spread when the sheath is bonded to the core. We noticed that some sheath damage was arrested by Unicore, meaning sheath tears didn't spread like they would on a normal rope. But, the effect of Unicore on sheath wear and tear was otherwise minimal, and didn't help Beal's ropes score any higher in this metric. However, it's nice to know that your rope won't fail when you are hanging off a tall cliff if the rope experiences severe sheath damage from a sharp edge.
Beal's ropes have average sheath durability, but the Unicore construction is a nice addition for peace of mind when you are climbing wandering routes high off the ground.
Credit: Jeff Dobronyi
Versatility
Increasingly, ropes are designed with specific climbing styles in mind. However, most climbers only have one rope, so it needs to be versatile enough different kinds of climbing. Most ropes excel in one or two disciplines, and can perform relatively well in a couple others. A few of the ropes in our review only perform well for a particular style of climbing. A high score in this category means it is a good rope for users hoping to own just one. A low score means a rope is a good addition to a quiver of ropes.
We discovered that versatility is closely correlated with diameter. Ropes in the 9.2-9.3 millimeter diameter ranger were the most versatile, since they are light enough to be used for alpine climbing, and can also handle some abuse at the top-rope crag. The Sterling Aero 9.2 XEROS and Edelrid Tommy Caldwell Eco Dry ColorTec 9.3 are the most versatile ropes on the market, since they can be used for literally any kind of climbing. They both have dry treatments that keep out water, making them suitable for ice and mixed climbing too.
Alpine climbing in Colorado with the Sterling Aero 9.2 XEROS.
Credit: Jeff Dobronyi
The Mammut 9.5 Crag Classic and Crag We Care Classic are also versatile, despite their 9.5 millimeter diameter. They are less suitable for alpine climbing, but they are great on multi-pitch routes. They outperform the 9.2-9.3 millimeter ropes in the single-pitch and gym-climbing disciplines, which is where many climbers spend most of their time. We also like the versatility of the Black Diamond 9.4 Dry and the Petzl Volta.
Testing the versatile Mammut 9.5 Crag We Care Classic on El Cap.
Credit: Jack Cramer
Features
Modern climbing ropes have come a long way from the basic kernmantle ropes of the past. Now, features like dry treatments, multiple use ratings, convenient factory coils, different length and color options, and different types of middle marks are used to make the vertical life easier. For a full run-down on the different climbing rope features, check out our buying advice article.
Beal'sOpera and Joker are the most heavily-featured ropes in our review. They have two different types of dry treatments available, and come in a variety of lengths so that you can customize your rope purchase to fit your needs. They both have Unicore construction, which adds security in the event of rope damage. They're also triple-rated, meaning they can be used as half or twin ropes in addition to single-rope systems. This adds significant versatility for advanced users. The only feature we miss with these ropes is the lack of a bi-pattern middle mark.
The Beal Opera's middle mark is relatively easy to see, but it wears off quickly and needs to be re-marked often.
Credit: Jeff Dobronyi
Speaking of middle marks, the Edelrid Tommy Caldwell Eco Dry ColorTec 9.3 has the best middle-mark around, thanks to a distinct bi-pattern sheath design. The sheath changes color from pink to blue at the halfway point, making it easy for users to spot the middle when lowering a climber or rappelling. The Sterling Aero 9.2 Xeros has a bi-pattern option, a triple-use rating, and a great dry treatment. The Edelrid Canary Pro Dry is another rope with great features, thanks to its triple rating, 2 dry treatment options, and easy coiling method to reduce twists from the factory.
Edelrid's ropes come with a handy slot in the packaging that allows the user to pull the rope out of the factory coil without twisting the rope.
Credit: Jeff Dobronyi
Weight
Generally, weight decreases as rope diameter decreases. Skinnier ropes have less core and sheath material, making them lighter, but less durable. As such, lightweight ropes aren't necessarily better than heavier ropes. Lighter ropes are still plenty strong, but they are most useful when the approach gets lengthy and when pitches stretch over 30 meters.
Rope Weight and Diameter
Weight (g/m)
Calculated Sheath Weight (g/m)
Diameter (mm)
Beal Opera
48
18
8.5
Edelrid Canary Pro Dry
51
24
8.6
Edelrid Swift Eco Dry
52
18
8.9
Beal Joker
53
19
9.1
Petzl Volta
55
23
9.2
Sterling Aero 9.2 Xeros
56
23
9.2
Edelrid Tommy Caldwell 9.3
57
22
9.3
Black Diamond 9.4 Dry
58
21
9.4
Mammut 9.5 Crag We Care
58
24
9.5
Mammut 9.5 Crag Classic
59
24
9.5
Beal Booster III
61
26
9.7
Sterling Velocity XEROS 9.8
62
22
9.8
Edelrid Tommy Caldwell 9.6
62
25
9.6
The lightest rope on the market is the Beal Opera. At 8.5 millimeters in diameter and a weight of 48 grams per meter, this rope sets the standard for lightweight performance, and it's used mostly for alpine climbing. In most other types of climbing, a little more weight is acceptable, especially when durability is increased by bringing a heavy rope. But for alpine climbing, where every gram counts, this rope is a godsend. We also love the Edelrid Canary Pro Dry's lightweight performance for alpine climbing. This option measures in at 51 grams per meter.
Testing the Edelrid Canary Pro Dry (red) and Beal Opera (green) side by side.
Credit: Jeff Dobronyi
The Edelrid Swift Eco Dry measures 8.9 millimeters in diameter and has a weight of 52 grams per meter. It's a great choice for alpine climbing when the route demands a little more durability than the thinnest cords. We also like the lightweight Beal Joker for multi-pitch climbing at our limit, where every gram hanging from our harness makes a difference.
The highly versatile Sterling Aero 9.2 and Edelrid TC Eco Dry ColorTec 9.3 are both light enough for long routes and lengthy approaches, but they have a little more heft due to their increased diameters. Still, these ropes are light enough for most weight-conscious missions.
Way up above Estes Park, Colorado, testing the Sterling Aero 9.2.
Credit: Jeff Dobronyi
How to Choose a Climbing Rope
Here are a few simple variables to consider when selecting a climbing rope. For more information, check out our climbing rope buying advice article.
Diameter
Since every climbing rope is made with the same basic construction of a strong core surrounded by a colorful woven sheath, the biggest difference between ropes is the diameter. Thicker ropes are more durable, thanks to a thicker core and more sheath material to absorb wear and tear. Thinner ropes are less durable, but are also lighter than thick ropes. Thinner ropes stretch more than thicker ropes. If you plan on doing a lot of top-roping and single-pitch climbing, a thicker rope between 9.5 and 10.0 millimeters in diameter is appropriate. If you plan on using the rope for alpine climbing, routes with long approaches, or long routes, a lighter rope between 8.5 and 8.9 millimeters in diameter is a good choice. The most versatile ropes have a diameter of 9.0 to 9.5 millimeters, mixing the best of both worlds. They are lighter and more portable than thick ropes, and more durable than thin ropes.
The Edelrid Swift Eco Dry is our choice when we need a lightweight rope that is expected to take a beating.
Credit: Andy Wellman
Length
After deciding which diameter rope to purchase, you'll have to decide which length to purchase. 40-meter ropes are suitable only for gym climbs or top-roping short routes. 50-meter ropes are most useful in the Alps, where 25- or 50-meter pitches and 25-meter rappels are the norm. 60-meter ropes are the standard length, and most versatile. 70-meter ropes allow passage on some modern routes where 35-meter pitches and rappels are becoming more common. 80-meter ropes are useful only in specific destinations with long routes.
Other Features
Once you decide on the length and diameter range, you'll want to consider what additional features you need in a rope. Some ropes come with UIAA-certified Dry Treatments, which prevent the absorption of water. This is beneficial for anyone who climbs in the winter or in a wet summer climate. Some ropes have bi-pattern sheath designs, which are much easier to see than black middle marks that tend to wear off over time. If you do a lot of multi-pitch climbing or single-pitch climbing on long routes, a bi-pattern rope may be worthwhile. Finally, many of the skinniest ropes are triple-rated for use in single, half, and twin rope systems. This feature is only useful for climbers well-versed in these advanced tactics.
Dry-treatment is necessary when the rope will get wet, like when ice climbing or in wet climates.
Credit: Jeff Dobronyi
Conclusion
Deciding which climbing rope to purchase can be a difficult decision. Here, we've answered many of the common questions about how to choose a climbing rope. We hope you can now make an informed decision on which one will suit your climbing needs the best. We'll see you at the crag!
—
Jeff Dobronyi, Jack Cramer, Cam McKenzie Ring & Andy Wellman
