Blue Ice Addax Review

The Blue Ice Addax is the perfect harness for fast-and-light alpine climbs where weight savings are key. Despite the minimalist design, it is impressively durable, which might be surprising considering that ultralight gear often falls apart more quickly than its beefier counterparts. The Addax features four gear loops, a haul loop, and ice clipper slots, making it a versatile, four-season harness.

Performance Comparison

Hanging Comfort

Hanging out in a belay is not the Addax's strong suit. This ultralight design has been stripped down to a bare minimum. It weighs only 4.9 ounces, which, for reference, is lighter than an apple! To its benefit, the harness features fixed leg loops, which help reduce pressure points that are often created from buckles or the leg loops moving out of position. Despite its minimalist design, the frame is also relatively rigid, which gives your body more support while hanging or taking falls.

We spent quite a bit of time cragging in this harness to see how well it stood up against more traditionally padded harnesses. It does include a small amount of EVA foam padding in strategic areas, such as the waist and leg loops, for comfort during extended wear, but it's minimal at best. The waist belt and leg loops cover much less surface area than burlier harnesses – which are, not surprisingly, much more comfortable than the Addax. If you need to occasionally hang or rappel in this harness, no problem. We just wouldn't recommend it for projecting or extended hanging belays.

Standing Comfort and Mobility

When you pull on the Addax, you'll hardly notice you have it on. However, once you clip on a double rack, slings, and approach shoes, you might start to feel differently. The Addax should not be your go-to when you have to carry a ton of stuff – its ultralight design just doesn't hold up to weight as well as some other heavier-duty harnesses. It should, however, be your choice for fast-and-light missions.

The leg loops are fixed and don't offer much stretch. But there is a small bit of elastic on the inner thigh that provides a bit of wiggle room. No one wants to feel like a tight-fitting harness restricts their movement, so it's important to correctly size the Addax to maximize comfort and mobility.

Features

Although the Addax is a minimalist harness, it is thoughtfully designed and still incorporates almost all of the features you could want. The waist belt and leg loops are covered with breathable mesh panels to enhance ventilation for climbing on hot days. This breathable, lightweight design is particularly warranted for all-day simul-climbing or long treks across sun-baked, glaciated terrain.

One feature that might take some time to get used to is the slim belay loop. Blue Ice calls it the “Magic Ring,” and unlike most belay loops, it is seamless. It is also very skinny but fear not – it is full-strength rated and meets all of the UIAA certifications. Four soft gear loops fit a good amount of gear, but they don't provide as comfortable of a carry as a harness with stiff loops and a more padded waist belt. That said, having soft gear loops makes carrying a backpack much easier and more comfortable, which is also an important design consideration for an alpine harness.

Versatility

With four large gear loops, a haul loop, and ice clipper slots, the Addax easily transitions from the crag to an alpine environment. The gear loops are a bit smaller than we'd like, only measuring about 4.5 inches across. We could fit a double rack, slings, and our standard belay kit on there, but just barely.

While this lightweight harness is marketed as a jack-of-all-trades, it really shines in an alpine environment where you don't need a ton of gear on your harness. It should be pulled out of your gear closet for those fast-and-light missions where saving weight in your backpack is key.

Adjustability

The speed-buckle adjustment on the waist belt of the Addax is super easy to operate. Unlike some other alpine-oriented harnesses we've tested, it stays locked in place and has yet to loosen itself. The buckle can be tightened or loosened with one hand and easily adjusted with gloves on.

Even though the leg loops on the Addax are fixed, a bit of elastic on the inner thigh does provide a few inches of wiggle room to add some layers for cold alpine climbs. Like all other harnesses with fixed leg loops, if you want to add or take off layers, you have to take the leg loops all the way off. But this is more challenging with this harness because of the lack of release buckles. Instead, there is an overhand knot on the end of the shock cord that you would have to push through the nylon loop. If you need to change clothes, the unfortunate reality is that its easiest to take the Addax completely off.

Should You Buy the Blue Ice Addax

The Blue Ice Addax harness is ideal for alpine climbs that prioritize weight savings, making it the perfect choice for alpine climbs. Despite its minimalist design, it is remarkably durable, defying our expectations that this ultralight piece of gear would wear out faster than heavier alternatives. Thanks to a full-fledged set of features, it really is a four-season, jack-of-all-trades kind of harness. Yet, we firmly believe that the Addax excels in an alpine environment.

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