REASONS TO BUY
Durable
Great price
Easy to clean
REASONS TO AVOID
Heavy
Not as useful in flaring cracks
Omega Pacific Wedgies Review
Omega Pacific Wedgies Climbing Nut
Credit: Steve
Our Verdict
Omega Pacific Wedgies might have a strange name but they are a great foundation for any climber's rack. Wedgies are also among the better priced nuts we tested. In addition to their competitive price you get a Caranut nut tool when purchasing their standard set. Omega Pacific was the first company to make the heads of their nuts anodized, a feature now nearly standard in the industry. The Wedgies' design is very similar to that of Black Diamond Stoppers and identical to the Cypher Huevos. Wedgies and Huevos are tied for having the second largest range of sizes in their standard set.
We almost chose Omega Pacific Wedgies as our Best Buy; they narrowly lost to an identical model that Omega Pacific actually produces, the Cypher Huevos, that are slightly less cash. But if you are also buying a nut tool then Wedgies are the better deal. They have one of the best prices for one of the most useful size runs. Wedgies have an excellent amount of size overlap, placing close to BD Stoppers and WC Rocks on a Wire. Unfortunately, Wedgies were nearly the heaviest models we tested. They are dependable nuts that are awesome in the smaller pieces and average in the middle to larger ones.
Our Analysis and Test Results
Likes
Through side-by-side comparisons, we found that Omega Pacific Wedgies were easier to clean than most other models a hair easier than Black Diamond Stoppers and much easier than Metolius Curve Nuts and DMM Wallnuts. Wedgies are among the most durable nuts on the market; their wires rarely start kinking and the nuts themselves never seem to get to thrashed. Omega Pacific also makes one of the bigger size ranges for aluminum nuts. The range was a bit smaller than that of Wild Country Rocks on a Wire but Wedgies offered a slightly more useful size range. Omega Pacific was the first company to make anodized heads, which makes for easy size recognition. They perform well in parallel cracks, too. Their smaller nuts placed well but their medium to large nuts were average.
Dislikes
DMM Alloy Offsets, Wallnuts or Metolius Curve Nuts fit in a wider range of cracks in middle and larger sizes (above size #5 or #6). However, we did love the Omega Pacific Wedgies' smaller sizes below #5 or #6. On the whole, their fit versatility was about the same as for BD Stoppers, Cypher Huevos, or WC Rocks. Omega Pacific Wedgies, along with Cypher Huevos, are nearly the heaviest in the review. Only Frost Works Sentinel nuts are heavier.
Best Application
Wedgies are an excellent option for climbers looking to buy a set of nuts on a budget. They make a good set for beginners because of their large continuous size run, solid durability, decent placement versatility and relative ease of cleaning. Plus, a complete set comes with a Caranut tool — how can you argue with that? As one of the heavier nuts, Wedgies are a poor choice for alpine climbers, mountaineers or anybody trying to save weight.
Value
With the free Caranut tool, a set of Omega Pacific Wedgies is one of the best-priced group in this review. Wedgies performed in placement about the same as BD Stoppers and Cypher Huevos but were slightly easier to clean than BD Stoppers. They were on a par with more expensive nuts in regards to durability, sizes available, size overlap and small size performance.
—
Ian Nicholson
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