REASONS TO BUY
Soft and sensitive
Easy on/off
Narrow toe gets in thin cracks
REASONS TO AVOID
Thin outsole limits lifespan
Five Ten Mini Mocc Review
A great all-around shoe that will work well for intermediate climbers, both outside or in the gym
Credit: Backcountry
Our Verdict
The Five Ten Mini Mocc - Kids, has a reputation as a good all-around kid's shoe, and they have solid performance when put side by side with the rest of the intermediate climbing shoes in our test. The split-grain leather breathes and stretches over time, and the wide hook and loop opening makes it a breeze to get in and out of. We love the performance the sticky Stealth rubber provides.
Our Analysis and Test Results
Five Ten is known for its high traction footwear; they have made some of the top performing climbing shoes for years and have set the standard for rubber friction with their Stealth C4 rubber. The Mini Mocc is no exception. Whether you are looking for a shoe that climbs cracks or pockets on vertical terrain, this shoe should do the trick.
Performance Comparison
The Wichita Wildlife Refuge turned out to be a great place to test, with its splitter granite crags.
Edging
This soft shoe can edge pretty well for those smaller, lighter climbers, but the older, heavier kids will have a little more trouble due to the shoe's super soft and flexible platform, and it will cause the foot to have to work harder. The (meager) 2mm of Stealth C4 is super sticky though and will help keep the toes on those jibs.
On the steep limestone faces, we were able to see how well the Mini Mocc edged.
Crack Climbing
The adult version of this shoe has historically been known as a go-to moderate crack climbing shoe. Also, like the adult version, this is a super soft shoe. While it performs well in cracks, it doesn't have any protection around the foot, other than the rand and the split grain leather, so some cracks may be painful. The low profile, narrow toe is great at getting into the thin seams, and the Stealth C4 rands and outsoles help to stick well in all types of cracks.
Pockets
The narrow, low profile toe is also exceptional at fitting into the smallest pockets and the Stealth C4 rubber sticks well. However, the soft, flexible sole doesn't have much support so, like with edging, the older, heavier kid climbers will have to work harder to stay in.
Sensitivity
Out of all the intermediate climbing shoes, this is the most sensitive. Since they only have 2mm of Stealth C4 rubber and a thin split grain leather lining, there isn't much between their foot and the rock. Therefore the climber can feel the nuances of the hold they are standing on.
The Mini Mocc had great sensitivity for slabbing up southern Utah sandstone.
Comfort
This shoe has a super soft split grain leather that will stretch over time to make a guaranteed custom fit. The thin sole keeps it from feeling like a brick on your feet, and the wide, stretchy, hook and loop opening is super adjustable to make sure the foot is not only comfortable but secure. Kids out there that climb long routes will appreciate this comfort.
The Mini Mocc was comfortable, even on long pitches.
Value
The value of an item weighs the performance, comfort, and durability. The performance is pretty good, and while the shoes should last a casual climber until they grow out of them, an active climber is likely to wear through either the thin toe rand or the 2mm outsole unless he/she has good footwork. Not an uncommon characteristic, but we feel it is worth mentioning is, the red dye in the split grain suede will stain socks or feet red when new.
Conclusion
The Five Ten Mini Mocc is a good all-around intermediate rock climbing shoe for kids. The soft leather and thin sole ensure comfort, while the Stealth S1 rubber has good grip on all types of rock and holds up well. However, the use of less (thinner) rubber means that they will wear down over time and may not last for more than one kid.
—
Adam Paashaus
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