La Sportiva Skwama - Women's Review
Our Verdict
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This Product
La Sportiva Skwama - Women's | |||||
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Awards | Best Overall Climbing Shoe | Best for Trad Climbing | Best for Edging and Technical Climbing | Best Bang for the Buck | A Great Value for Beginners |
Price | $198.95 at Amazon Compare at 3 sellers | Check Price at REI Compare at 3 sellers | $199.00 at REI Compare at 2 sellers | $75.00 at Amazon Compare at 2 sellers | $88.95 at Amazon Compare at 3 sellers |
Overall Score | |||||
Star Rating | |||||
Bottom Line | These high-performance slippers work well for almost all types of climbing, from cracks to steep sport climbs to bouldering | A do-it-all shoe that is a new fan favorite for difficult cracks and multi-pitch climbing | For climbing where footwork is key, look no further than this versatile slipper | An ideal shoe for a beginner climber: soft, comfortable, and great for moderate terrain | A shoe that is great for all-day wear and is easy to take on and off |
Rating Categories | La Sportiva Skwama... | La Sportiva Katana... | La Sportiva Miura V... | Five Ten Kirigami -... | La Sportiva Tarantu... |
Comfort (20%) | |||||
Smearing (20%) | |||||
Edging (20%) | |||||
Pulling (20%) | |||||
Cracks (20%) | |||||
Specs | La Sportiva Skwama... | La Sportiva Katana... | La Sportiva Miura V... | Five Ten Kirigami -... | La Sportiva Tarantu... |
Style | Velcro | Lace | Velcro | Velcro | Lace |
Weight (Per Pair, size 37) | 0.95 lb | 1.09 lb | 0.94 lb | 0.99 lb | 0.97 lb |
Upper | Leather/microfiber | Microfiber/leather | Leather | Synthetic | Leather/microfiber |
Lining | Unlined | Full-length LaspoFlex with P3 system | Dentex | Synthetic | Unlined |
Sole Rubber | Vibram XS Grip2 | Vibram XS Edge | Vibram XS Grip2 | Stealth C4 | Frixion RS |
Width Options | Regular | Regular | Regular | Regular | Regular |
Fit | Asymmetrical | Asymmetrical | High Asymmetry | Low Asymmetry | Low Asymmetry |
Our Analysis and Test Results
The Skwama from La Sportiva is an elegant, technical slipper that combines comfort with performance. It is great for smearing, steep climbing, and even crack climbing, making it an excellent choice for high-level sport and trad climbing.
Performance Comparison
Comfort
The Skwama is one of the most comfortable shoes we tested. Many of the shoes that compare to these in terms of comfort cater to beginners, but the Skwama is a high-performance shoe that delivers the comfort of a slipper. The simple Velcro closure and stretchy sleeve make it easy to slide these shoes on and off in between burns on your project.
At first, the shape of the Skwama can be hard to get used to, as they are both soft and downturned. This combination can feel a bit strange across your arch at first, but once these shoes break in, they fit like a glove. With that in mind, during testing, these shoes stretched out more than most La Sportiva models. We suggest downsizing at least a half size if you are looking for a performance fit. Otherwise, size them regularly and expect a very comfortable shoe once the break-in period passes.
Smearing
We found the Skwama among the most sensitive and precise climbing kicks out there. From small edges to smears, they stick to almost any foothold you are willing to try. Initially, we found there to be a lot of rubber right at the toe, which detracted from their sensitivity at first. But, after wearing down this pointy toe, the Skwamas will stick to any foothold.
We tested on the slippery, smeary limestone of Tensleep Canyon and found them to miraculously stick to even the greasiest-looking footholds. They are also useful on the ubiquitous granite smears of Yosemite Valley. Overall, the Skwama held its own next to other beloved Sportiva models in both limestone and granite venues.
Edging
When it comes to edging, the Skwama is a touch underwhelming. These slippers lack the stiffness and support underfoot to really be considered an edging shoe. Fresh out of the box, they perform relatively well on small holds, but as soon as they begin to stretch out, the shoe becomes too soft to stand with much precision.
La Sportiva's P3 technology allows the Skwama to hold its downturned shape, performing much better on small edges and vertical terrain than other soft shoes. Edges and small footholds on steep terrain, with less weight on the foot, were areas where the Skwama particularly excelled. But on slabs and lower-angle routes, a shoe with a bit more support underfoot will likely be more comfortable.
Pulling
The Skwama was one of our favorite shoes for pulling on the steep, pocketed limestone that abounds in Tensleep Canyon. Right out of the box, when the rubber felt a little insensitive for edging and small holds, these shoes could hold their own. The shape of the toe box makes for a pulling-precision tool that can fit into small holds or pockets with ease. Their stickiness and soft midsole allow them to ease into smears and tiny divots in a way that is surprisingly confidence-inspiring. And since they are soft, you can really feel the hold and pull with your toes.
Additionally, the Skwamas provide technical mastery in a comfortable package. Typically, a downturned, aggressive shoe like this would take time to break in, but these shoes felt great right out of the box – so much so that we suggest downsizing since they stretch out with use.
Crack Climbing
We were pleasantly surprised with the Skwama's performance on cracks. Because of their aggressive shape, they're not our first choice for hand cracks and long days of moderate trad climbing, but they are a reasonable go-to for harder cracks. Their narrow profile and toe box allow them to fit into small cracks with ease, while the single Velcro closure higher on the foot doesn't get in the way while twisting into hand cracks.
The Skwama performed surprisingly well on the granite cracks of Yosemite and the alpine wonderland of the Bugaboos. These shoes strike a wonderful balance between a comfy slipper ideal for crack climbing and an aggressive shoe designed for steep, techy sport climbing. We were super impressed with how well they performed while rand smearing in the classic tight corners found in Index, WA where you absolutely have to rely on footwork to get up the climb. The extra rubber on the toe really helped the jams stick even on the most humid days.
Should You Buy the Women's La Sportiva Skwama?
The Skwama is an excellent option as a go-to for practically all styles of climbing, from cracks to steep boulders to sport climbs. We like having these in our fleet as a shoe that will perform well at most any crag. We found them to stretch out a bit over time, so make sure to downsize a half-size if you want them to have a performance fit. These are a great, comfortable all-day shoe for multi-pitch sport climbs or a difficult crack project. Despite their price, the Skwama will certainly deliver the performance you expect from a high-end climbing shoe – we feel like the splurge is worth it.
What Other Climbing Shoes Should You Consider?
If you're searching for a shoe in this price range, consider some of the other high-end La Sportiva models. The La Sportiva Solution and the La Sportiva Solution Comp are similarly priced, and both shoes excel on steep sport climbing routes and difficult boulder problems. With their Velcro closure system, they are also easy to slip on and off in between burns on your project. The La Sportiva Miura VS is also an excellent choice for steep climbing with its mildly downturned toe and asymmetrical fit.