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We've tested more than 30 of the best women's approach shoes in the last decade. For our most recent review, we purchased 13 of the top options to test side-by-side. We wore each pair for miles of trail, hopping through boulder fields, climbing granite slabs, and up technical alpine routes and big walls. We evaluated each shoe's climbing ability, hiking comfort, weight and packability, and support. After months of use, we closely examined them to judge construction quality against our battery of difficult real-world testing. We know that it can be difficult to tell the difference between approach shoes, so our experts have compiled the most comprehensive review available to help you find the perfect pair for your needs.
Our dedicated team of climbers has been reviewing climbing gear for over a decade. Whatever piece of gear you need to round out your collection, chances are good that we've tested it. From the best top harnesses to belay devices and the best-rated ropes, we've got the scoop on the best products on the market.
Editor's Note: We updated this review on November 5, 2024, to update our award-winning lineup with new testing perspectives, photos, and videos.
Ultralight and packable, comfortable hiking, super breathable
Climbs well, comfortable, sticky rubber offers good traction on wet rock
Lightweight, comfortable, breathable, good for short hikes to the crag
Cons
Expensive, not as supportive for long hikes
Average in climbing ability, bulky
Expensive, narrow sizing may not fit your foot
Narrow fit, stiff midsole
Mesh uppers don't offer the same protection as leather
BOA system doesn't cinch the toe box, thin mesh upper doesn't offer much protection
Not very supportive for long approaches, relatively expensive
Not durable, low ankle support, not supportive for long hikes with a heavy pack
Bottom Line
A great all-around shoe that covers the basic needs of climbers heading to the crag or for moderate approaches
This is a comfortable shoe that excels while hiking on muddy terrain and gives good traction on wet rock
These shoes are confidence-inspiring, durable, and designed for scrambles and other rugged alpine missions
A shoe that excels in climbing but lacks the comfort for long approaches
This approach shoe is great for hiking to the crag, clipping to your harness for a multi-pitch, and comfortable enough for long approaches into the mountains
These ultralight approach shoes are comfortable and super breathable, but design tweaks are necessary to improve overall performance
A good choice for easy scrambling or short hikes to the crag
The lightest shoe we tested and a great choice for short approaches and multi-pitches where you need to clip an approach shoe to your harness
Weight: 18.7 oz per pair | Sole Rubber: Vibram MegaGrip
REASONS TO BUY
Lightweight
Great climbing ability
Comfortable
Can be re-soled
REASONS TO AVOID
Less durable
Sole delaminates over time
The La Sportiva TX2 Evo is our favorite approach shoe, hands down. We love how light it is, and it entirely changes our scrambling and multi-pitch climbing strategies. This shoe climbs incredibly well, and its snug, sock-like fit feels secure on the foot while standing on small edges. The breathable mesh upper keeps your feet comfortable in warm weather and substantially reduces weight. The slim profile can be easily clipped to the back of a harness or stuffed into a climbing pack for those routes that require a walk-off. It is partially made from recycled raw materials and can be easily re-soled, too.
Our testers feel agile, light, and secure in this shoe, and it quickly won our hearts as our favorite product in the bunch. Our main complaint is that the mesh uppers of the TX2 Evo will not protect your foot as well from accidental slips onto sharp rocks or offer the long-lasting durability you might see from a leather shoe like the La Sportiva TX4 Evo. For example, after a year of heavy use, the sole on the TX2 Evo began to delaminate on both the front and side of the shoe. That being said, although other models may provide more support or have more durability, no other shoe that we tested has the consistency of high scores across the board.
The TX2 quickly became the overall favorite of every member of our testing team thanks to the combination of exceptional climbing ability with a supportive midsole and sticky rubber that won't weigh you down.
Weight: 28.9 oz per pair | Sole Rubber: Vibram Idro-Grip V-Smear
REASONS TO BUY
Super comfortable
Very supportive
Affordable
REASONS TO AVOID
Doesn't climb very well
Bulky and heavy
Once again, the classic La Sportiva Boulder X has proved its worth with the strong value it presents. This shoe is a workhorse of a hiker and is our go-to choice for longer treks into the mountains or any approach where technical scrambling is not required and you can leave approach shoes at the base. We love their durable build, and the expected longevity of this utility approach shoe adds to its value.
This shoe earned high marks for support and comfort, and its durable design is ready to be put to the test. Unfortunately, its rather bulky structure impacts its climbing ability. While the sticky rubber of the Boulder X is abundant enough for most approaches, if you want to do a lot of climbing in your approach shoes, we suggest looking at a specialist like the La Sportiva TX Guide. But for folks who value a good deal and durability over technical climbing performance, the Boulder X is our top recommendation.
Weight: 21.0 oz per pair | Sole Rubber: Vibram MegaGrip
REASONS TO BUY
Unsurpassed climbing ability
Durable yet breathable upper
Stiffness inspires confidence on technical terrain
REASONS TO AVOID
Expensive
Narrow forefoot
The La Sportiva TX Guide is a climbing machine. With burly yet breathable uppers, a stiff midsole, and the most impressive climbing ability of any shoe we've tested, this shoe is made for the mountains. When traveling in technical terrain, our footwear can be an important safety tool — if we don't feel solid or trust our feet, it can be massively detrimental to any alpine mission. Whenever we set out in the TX Guide, we felt confident in our climbing abilities and rarely second-guessed a foot placement. Their slim profile is ideal for clipping to a harness, and these are great for technical rock climbs as well as long ridge scrambles.
The biggest downside to these shoes is their narrow toe box and lack of hiking comfort. This might be fine for some, but our lead tester has wider feet, which were a much better fit for the Scarpa Mescalito Planet. The narrow toe box combined with a super-stiff midsole makes the TX Guide a bit less comfortable to hike in. Still, their climbing prowess makes them our favorite for technical alpine romps and for folks with narrow feet.
The top-notch climbing performance, narrow fit, and stiff midsole made the TX Guide one of our favorite approach shoes for pushing big wall objectives.
Weight: 24 oz per pair | Sole Rubber: Vibram Megagrip
REASONS TO BUY
Climbs well
Supportive and comfortable enough for all-day wear
Durable leather upper
REASONS TO AVOID
Long break-in period
Heavy
Limited durability in lacing system
The La Sportiva TX4 Evo is the perfect approach shoe for someone looking to select one versatile shoe that's can withstand everyday use. The latest iteration prioritizes repurposed and recycled materials within the construction as well as a newly redesigned platform that is easier to resole so as to extend the overall life of your purchase. While this update feels like a much stiffer design through the Traverse Injection MEMlex with co-molded TPU shank and 7% recycled EVA midsole, it breaks in well and begins to conform to the shape of your foot. The Vibram Megagrip outsole has also been upgraded to a multi-directional 4mm lug pattern that provides excellent grip on everything from slippery boulders, tiny footholds, and decomposing granite found on High Sierra trails. These shoes are supportive and stable enough for hiking with heavy loads, big wall climbing, as well as Search and Rescue missions that often require moving over off-trail and unstable terrain.
Perhaps our biggest complaint with this approach shoe is the lacing system. There are only two eyelets that are reinforced with metal and the heel tab is intertwined with the laces and could potentially be compromised with daily wear and tear. For this reason, we recommend re-lacing the shoe to keep to two sections separate (see video below), which will extend the life of your laces and prevent your harness attachment from failing. Speaking of the loop on the heel, these shoes are one of the heaviest pairs that we tested, so we do not recommend them for light and fast missions where you have your approach shoes attached to your harness. And finally, this fully leather shoe greatly increases durability, however, it does not breathe well while hiking, so we suggest purchasing a lighter color when possible. If you're after a lighter and more breathable approach shoe, check out the TX 2 Evo that doesn't offer near the same amount of durability but quickly became the favorite shoe of our entire testing team.
The latest iteration of the La Sportiva TX4 Evo is perfect for everyday use thanks to a versatile design that is both durable and supportive for short or long approaches.
Weight: 21.4 oz per pair | Sole Rubber: Vibram Dynamis LB/MegaGrip
REASONS TO BUY
Comfortable and supportive
Incredibly durable
Climbs well
REASONS TO AVOID
Expensive
Wide forefoot
The Scarpa Mescalito Planet is the newest addition to the Scarpa lineup. They are an exceptionally comfortable approach shoe that excels in technical mountain terrain. What sets this shoe apart from the rest is the high-quality construction and attention to detail in the design. The single-piece, multi-density upper is incredibly durable and can withstand consistent wear and tear in extreme alpine environments. There is full rand protection to protect your feet while crack climbing and metal eyelets to help prevent blowing out shoelaces. We put 40 miles on them in the first two weeks of use, and they barely show a scratch. The shoe is really well-designed, highly durable, and built to last.
The main downside of the Mescalito Planet is the price tag. They're easily one of the most expensive approach shoes we've ever tested. They also have quite a wide-toe box that might not fit everyone – if you have a narrow foot, we suggest checking out the La Sportiva TX Guide instead. While you can tightly cinch down the laces of the Mescalito Planet, your climbing ability will definitely improve if this shoe fits you well. Criticisms aside, if you have the purchasing power and these shoes fit your foot well, the reward is a durable, well-constructed shoe that will likely last for years of adventure.
The Scarpa Mescalito Planet is a burly approach shoe that features a durable construction from a Prespair upper and Vibram Dynamis LB and Megagrip outsole for excellent grip on slippery rock.
Credit: Gus Landefeld
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The Buttermilks are the perfect place to test the sticky rubber on our approach shoes.
Credit: Erin Elliott
Why Trust GearLab
Our testers don't shy away from climbs requiring long approaches. We sometimes spend hours approaching the base of a climb. Over the past ten years, we've been putting countless approach shoes through the wringer to find the best shoes to meet our specific needs. We start out by doing product research to slim down the selection of shoes to just the top contenders. We then purchase each pair and ship them off to our expert testers, who painstakingly test each shoe by hiking miles on end, scrambling on low-angle rock, slogging on loose talus, and assessing overall performance on a variety of hiking and climbing styles. We've been testing approach shoes with this method for a decade, and we feel confident we can help you find the right shoe.
We specifically test each shoe based on five different metrics:
Trish Matheny understand the challenges of moving through mountainous terrain. All of our testers spend more time in approach shoes than any other style of footwear – estimates average more than 300 days every year. From Yosemite's big walls to the long, talus-filled approaches of Patagonia, our testers have put in the work to determine which of these models excels and which ones fall short.
You want to be confident that your feet are going to stick to the rock on a runout traverse; this is exactly the type of terrain where the TX Guide excels.
The TX Guide climb incredibly well and have the stiffness to stand on small edges.
Whether bouldering in the Buttermilks, climbing multi-pitch in the High Sierra, or ascending a route on El Capitan, our expert testers put each model to the ultimate performance test.
For this review, Jane, Whitney, and Trish spent several hours researching the best options available, comparing specs to their combined experience of wearing approach shoes for over a decade. After selecting the top models, our testers spent time hiking and climbing in the High Sierra and Yosemite Valley. Additional trips to El Chalten, Argentina, and Cochamo, Chile, were thrown in to ensure that each shoe in this review was put through rigorous field testing. Each was worn for at least 15 miles of trail, and we tested specific climbing capabilities, like edging and smearing, on granite and volcanic boulders. After months of testing each pair, we are confident in our assessments and recommendations.
Breathable and comfortable, The North Face Cragstone Pro is great for long walks but not quite tuned for technical climbing.
Credit: Whitney Clark
Analysis and Test Results
This fact may sound obvious, but there's much more to climbing than the climb itself. Unless you are primarily climbing at an indoor gym, getting to the rock almost always includes some work, whether that's a short jaunt on a manicured, well-kept trail or miles of bushwhacking and talus-hopping in the alpine. While a trail running or hiking shoe may be enough to get you to some crags, a specifically designed approach shoe includes many characteristics not found in your everyday shoe.
Climbers' trails tend to be a bit rougher than popular hiking trails and frequently involve some third, fourth, or even fifth-class scrambling. We looked closely at the top women's models to see how they measure up on several metrics critical to this type of footwear. We walk you through everything you need to know about choosing the right product for your preferences and give you the inside info on how the gear truly stacks up.
What's the Best Value?
We understand that price is a significant influence on your decision-making process. We consider “value” to be the combination of price and performance — essentially, how much performance you get per dollar. Many of the products that we tested in this review fell into a similar scope, which may make your decision slightly easier in the end.
One of the best values we've found is in the La Sportiva Boulder X. This shoe costs slightly less than others in our lineup, offers fantastic hiking comfort and support, and features a durable leather upper that is built to last. If you mostly hike on established trails in your approach shoes, the Boulder X or the similarly designed Scarpa Crux are excellent options for a reasonable price. But if you plan to mix hiking, scrambling, and climbing in your shoes, the La Sportiva TX2 Evo stands out as the best value for this application.
Overall Performance or a Speciality Shoe?
We have to admit it – our testers and many of their climbing partners own multiple pairs of approach shoes. We have our go-to pairs for long hikes and our favorite models for scrambling. If you're looking for a specific use, we suggest identifying the one or two metrics that are most important to you and looking at the highest scorers in those categories. However, we understand many of you may be searching for a single pair for all of your adventures. If this is the case, we recommend considering investing in one of the top performers – these are approach shoes that excelled in all of our tests.
The Boulder X doesn't have the best climbing ability, but it still does decently well on large foot holds.
Credit: Will Stanhope
Climbing Ability
Sticky rubber and the ability to travel over technical climbing terrain are the main features that separate an approach shoe from a hiking shoe. Many approaches, especially in alpine terrain, require scrambling on third or fourth-class terrain, and it is critical that your approach shoe keeps you safe and secure no matter what. To test this, we took them out on all our climbing adventures, from the sport crag to the alpine.
Now, more than ever, climbers expect more from their approach shoes – trekking far into the backcountry or even climbing moderate fifth-class routes in them. It's an excellent way to protect your toes from grueling hours in tight climbing shoes, especially if the temperatures are dropping and socks are required. If this sounds familiar, then pay particular attention to this metric. However, if you only do a little bit of scrambling and spend most of your time on well-maintained trails, this parameter may not hold as much weight. In fact, you may even want to look at women's hiking shoes for products that maximize on-trail comfort.
The La Sportiva TX2 Evo features a sock-like fit, lightweight, and low profile that supplied some of the best climbing performance of all the shoes that we tested.
Credit: Gus Landefeld
Several components go into the overall climbing ability of a shoe. To thoroughly evaluate the shoe's climbing performance, we individually tested each pair while executing three different techniques: edging, smearing, and crack climbing. As far as this review is concerned, edging is a shoe's ability to help you stand on tiny footholds, from just a few millimeters thick to a few inches. Generally, a shoe's performance here is a function of the rubber's stickiness and the shape or design of the toe box.
Rounded toe boxes, like the Scarpa Mescalito, limit edging performance.
Credit: Gus Landefeld
Smearing is what you do when you use traction alone to stick to a steep surface that doesn't have any features on which to edge or step. Smearing ability has a lot to do with rubber quality and stickiness, as well as the tread design. This is particularly important in places where descent routes often involve trudging down steep slabs. Tread design with flatter lugs and a more surface area that can come in contact with the rock will typically perform better when you need to smear.
The Konseal FL 2 has a narrow profile and a stiff sole making them great for climbing.
Credit: Alexa Flower
The last type of climbing technique we evaluate is crack climbing. We wanted to know how the shoe performed when fitting inside, twisting, and locking your toes into vertical cracks to climb upwards. Often, shoes with a lower toe-box height and a toe box made of more flexible rubber and upper materials are more natural to jam inside a crack.
Although the TX2 Evo didn't offer as much protection inside of sharp cracks (due to the knit mesh upper), the low profile allowed us to climb cracks of all sizes.
Credit: Gus Landefeld
The Arc'teryx Konseal FL 2 and La Sportiva TX Guide excel at climbing. The Konseal's snug fit, slim toe box, and definitive edge provide some of the best climbing performance we've ever experienced in an approach shoe. The TX Guide's similar feature set – including a narrow profile, a super-stiff midsole, and a sticky Vibram MegaGrip rubber soles – inspired confidence on technical scrambles where precision and good footwork are crucial. Not far behind is the TX4 Evo that is one of our favorite approach shoes for moving through easy fifth class terrain (once broken in) as the stiff midsole and snug-fit combine with the Vibram Megagrip rubber for notable performance.
Although the newly redesigned TX4 Evo requires some extra time to break in, they climb better and better as the stiff leather upper softens and conforms to your foot.
Credit: Gus Landefeld
Hiking Comfort
As with any product (though perhaps especially crucial for footwear), it is essential that you stay comfortable when you're using the gear. You'll likely spend many hours and miles hiking in these shoes, so it is certainly not okay to get blisters or hot spots or have aching feet. And it's not just about the hike. If you've just walked miles in an uncomfortable pair of shoes, you're not going to be psyched to stuff your toes into rock climbing shoes. In this way, your whole mission's success can depend on getting to your objective with comfort and ease.
A typical feature of shoes designed for technical climbing is to have laces that go further down the top of your foot than a regular hiking shoe or boot. When climbing, precision in the toe is critical, so you want to be able to tighten down the laces for a snug fit. When hiking, however, you want a roomier toe box that doesn't constrict your forefoot or rub your toes. Therefore, many models feature laces that go all the way to the toe area to help make this tightness more adjustable. Of course, this can also offer a more customized fit for people with high or low arches or broader or narrower forefeet. We awarded higher comfort scores to shoes with more versatile lacing designs.
The La Sportiva TX Guide features more padding that the TX4 Evo, a more narrow toe box and lighter-weight construction that is perfect for alpine objectives and extended hikes while approaching the base of your favorite climb.
Credit: Trish Matheny
We also looked at things that aid in a shoe's all-day comfort – we like shoes that have plush tongues and heels, and the interior fabric is important, too. While most of these shoes are not very breathable, ones with mesh uppers are much better at this than leather ones. The North Face Cragstone Pro is more breathable than most of the shoes in this lineup, which is an excellent comfort-based trait if you're often climbing in hot locations. The unique Spectra mesh upper allows for maximum airflow, and the shoes quickly dry out if they get wet from a necessary stream crossing or an accidental step in a puddle.
The unique, uber-breathable design of the Cragstone Pro is perfect for long walks in hot climates.
Credit: Luka Krajnc
Some of the most comfortable shoes in our lineup are the Boulder X, the Gecko, and the Crux. Both have plush tongues, heels, and inner materials that are made for exceptional all-day comfort, making these shoes our go-to choice for long approaches. The Mescalito Planet offers a similarly plush interior, while the knitted upper of the TX2 Evo fits like a slipper and offers exceptional breathability without compromising on overall support and climbing ability.
The Scarpa Gecko combine the perfect balance of comfort and performance for hiking and scrambling to the base of a climb.
Credit: Will Stanhope
When it comes to traversing snow and ice, more and more climbers are venturing into mixed terrain in their approach shoes, thanks to today's lightweight strap-on crampons. Some of the shoes in our lineup are burly enough for quick sections of snow, even without crampons. For this, we'd recommend the La Sportiva TX Guide or TX4 Evo. These models are burly enough to handle kicking steps and traversing glaciers by themselves but also work well with crampons due to a reinforced toe cap and stiff midsole. While the updated version of the TX4 Evo is a bit more stiff than previous generations, it provides a snug fit that locks your foot in place and the wider toe box can accommodate a variety of footshapes. The leather upper also softens over time and conforms to the shape of your foot after a few days of use.
The La Sportiva TX4 Evo features a durable and substantial toe cap that will protect your feet on technical off-trail terrain. The design also features a comfortable and lightly padded construction with a snug fit to hold your foot in place.
Credit: Gus Landefeld
Weight and Packability
Weight should always be a consideration when you are talking about gear that is involved in physical endeavors. Weight is less critical if the climbing areas you frequent typically have short approaches. However, when you have a complicated or long approach, weight is usually a significant factor when choosing which gear to use. To determine how important the weight metric is for you, look at your regular climbing routine. Are you primarily focused on single pitch routes or constantly planning your next multi-pitch where your approach shoes will be tossed into a backpack or clipped to your harness?
It's a no-brainer that if all things are otherwise equal, you should choose the lightest gear. But, of course, it's not that simple. Unfortunately, low weight is typically a trade-off for other desirable traits. Durability is one of the most significant trade-offs because the most durable materials are usually heavier (mesh uppers, for example, are lighter but less durable than solid leather). Additionally, it's usually inevitable that a comfortable, supportive shoe's features will be more cumbersome as well.
The La Sportiva TX2 Evo was our favorite shoe for short approaches and walk offs like the Rostrum, the lightweight design easily clips to our harness thanks to cord on both heels as well as two elastic attachments that snug the shoes together for a lower profile.
Credit: Gus Landefeld
Other considerations that influence the weight scores for each shoe are its packability and compactness. The highest scorers in this category are products that can easily be stuffed in your backpack or clipped on your harness while climbing a route. When multi-pitch climbing, it's crucial to find a shoe with the right balance between often conflicting considerations. If you're hiking deep into the alpine and need something that strikes a better balance between weight and support, the TX Guide or the TX4 Evo are great choices. Just be aware that the latest TX4 iteration is one of the heaviest (and most durable) shoes that we tested for this review.
We often need to clip our shoes to our harness for descents off multi-pitch terrain. Every shoe we tested had this clip loop, but some were more confidence-inspiring than others. The North Face Cragstone Pro is the lightest shoe we tested at 14.9 ounces and a great choice if saving weight is the most critical concern. They go practically unnoticed on the back of your harness, are super low profile, and pack easily into a backpack. The TX2 Evo has additional elastic to bundle the shoes together, which means they take up considerably less room on our harness or in our pack.
With a bit of tweaking, the ultralight Cragstone Pro could be a true asset for long alpine climbs in places like Patagonia.
Credit: Whitney Clark
The Arc'teryx Konseal FL 2 is slightly heavier than the TX2 Evo and offers a bit more durability. If you have an easy approach in mellow terrain, then the Black Diamond Session is a great option if weight and packability is the highest concern. It is one of the lightest pairs we tested and a good option for carrying up a climb to have shoes for the descent, but it doesn't offer the same level of comfort or support as other models in our lineup.
Climbing in Patagonia with the lightweight Arc'teryx Konseal FL 2 clipped to the harness.
Credit: Nicole Lawton
Support
If you expect to carry a full backpack or haul bag with rope, rack, and other daily or overnight gear, the support metric is important to your purchase decision. While most of this metric is hiking-related, aspects of support can also affect a shoe's climbing ability. If a shoe has a stiffer midsole, it will provide more arch support, preventing foot fatigue. If you expect to encounter any snowfields on your approach, a stiff midsole is also valuable to help with kicking steps to cross lower-angle snow patches safely.
Another important aspect of this category looks at how stable the shoe feels when traveling over uneven terrain. If you are rock-hopping across a boulder or talus field, you want a shoe that doesn't feel sloppy. A good approach shoe is secure enough to stay with you on uneven terrain. The last aspect of the support metric is how well the shoe protects your feet. Our favorite shoes have a robust upper and midsole to shield the sides and bottoms of your feet from sharp and abrasive rock edges. Bonus points go to waterproof shoes and products that protect your feet when crossing creeks or snowfields.
The TX4 Evo features a lightly padded construction that fits those with both narrow and wide feet, the lacing system (though not without some durability caveats) allows for a snug and custom fit, and the midsole offers enough stability for heavy loads.
Credit: Gus Landefeld
Shoes like the La Sportiva TX4 Evo and Boulder X offer the perfect balance of stiff yet flexible soles designed for secure, comfortable hiking over rugged terrain and on established trails alike. Their leather uppers and lateral reinforcements facilitated protection from the elements. While the Boulder X offers a bit more cushion, the TX4 Evo is slightly more versatile because it climbs better while still giving your foot the support you need for long treks into the mountains.
The Boulder X is supportive enough for a multi-mile approach.
Credit: Will Stanhope
Other exceptional climbing shoes like the TX Guide also offer a full rubber toe rand to protect your toes and durable uppers that resist abrasion and keep your feet safe from sharp rocks and boulders. The similarly designed Mescalito provides the same level of support, though its Persair upper is a bit more breathable than models with leather uppers. While Black Diamond Mission LT isn't quite as durable as the TX Guide or Mescalito, their unique bootie-like fit offers a nice level of lateral support.
The Scarpa Mescalito Planet are durable and offer plenty of support for scrambling over miles of boulders.
Credit: Kyle Queener
Another great shoe that draws a nice balance between comfort and support is the Salewa Wildfire 2. They inspired confidence on muddy terrain and talus, thanks to a burly Pomoca outsole that we found to be one of the grippiest of any shoe we tested. Like many of our other favorites, they also have a durable upper and reinforced front toe rand that offer extra support and protection.
Nothing better than scrambling around the Buttermilks after a fresh Autumn storm in the Salewa Wildfire 2.
Credit: Will Stanhope
Construction Quality
The relentless pursuit of innovation in footwear, from new materials to lighter designs, can sometimes come at the cost of durability. We've seen an increase in prematurely worn shoes, including delamination of the soles and tears in the upper. While all shoes wear out eventually, distinguishing between normal wear and tear and these quality issues is important. It's worth noting that lightweight shoes typically wear out faster than heavier ones, so focus on identifying signs of construction failure rather than expecting the same longevity.
One of the top performers in this metric is the Mescalito Planet. It has a full rubber rand to protect the front of the foot while crack climbing, metal eyelets to protect the laces, and a burly upper to resist abrasion from rubbing on rocks. It is definitely a shoe that's built to last – and it should be, given its hefty price tag.
The Mescalito Planet offer top-notch comfort and support for long adventures deep into the backcountry.
Credit: Whitney Clark
A close second to the Mescalito, is the TX4 Evo featuring a combination of nubuck leather and recycled materials in the durable upper as well as a full rand and beefier toe cap to provide more protection on the trails. Although the lacing system is perhaps the biggest caveat to this otherwise bomber design, these shoes are built to withstand miles of use in the mountains and on the trails. Sportiva even included a newly redesigned platform that makes these shoes easier to resole, offering even more bang for your buck.
The La Sportiva TX4 Evo is one of the heaviest models that we tested but it is also one of the most durable thanks to a leather upper, Vibram outsole, beefy toe box, and full wrap around rand.
Credit: Gus Landefeld
The TX Guide also held up well to wear and tear, from climbing low 5th-class terrain to long hikes in the mountains. These shoes feature PU-Tech-lite heel and toe caps to protect your feet while crack climbing and a durable upper that withstood our repeated beatings. The same high-quality construction that makes the Mescalito Planet so bomber is also replicated in the full-leather design of the Scarpa Gecko. This is a great all-around shoe that exhibited some solid durability in our testing.
After many miles of off-trail travel and big wall ascents, the shoes started to show significant signs of wear and tear.
Even the laces began to fray with enough wear.
The La Sportiva TX Guide got us through long traverses and many big wall objectives. However, the outsole began to delaminate, and the laces broke after many uses.
One important thing to note is that although the TX2 Evo is our all-around favorite approach shoe, after some pretty intensive use, the sole began to delaminate. Although this didn't happen until after a year of hiking and scrambling, none of the other shoes we've tested to date have had this issue. We also can't help but mention that the lightweight and minimal mesh upper didn't exactly provide enough cushion and padding to protect our feet when placing them inside cracks.
The sock-like fit around the ankles began to loosed up with extended wear.
The sole also began to separate after some pretty intense jams.
The TX2 Evo sock-like fit did stretch out a bit during testing and the sole began to delaminate from the mesh upper after many jams inside of cracks.
Mesh vs. Leather
We didn't score these approach shoes for their expected durability, as most of the shoes tested showed significant wear and tear during testing. But from our experience testing shoes for many years, shoes with leather uppers will predictably be more durable than those with mesh uppers. Mesh is great for saving weight and improving breathability, but if you know you'll spend a lot of time in rough terrain (or standing in aid ladders), leather is the definite way to go.
The TX2 Evo features a sock-like upper with low profile toe box that excels at shorter approaches and multi-pitch descents while the leather upper and beefy toe box of the TX4 Evo make it a great choice for longer off-trail approaches with heavy loads.
Credit: Trish Matheny
How to Choose Approach Shoes for Women
Approach Shoes 101
Simply put, approach shoes are a combination of a hiking shoe and a technical rock climbing shoe. These shoes feature a specialized “sticky” rubber outsole that allows climbers to access the base of their climbing objective. Approach shoes typically have stiff midsoles that also provide enough support and stability so that climbers can carry heavy backpacks. Approach shoes also mimic the lacing systems of rock climbing shoes in that they extend the laces closer to the toe of the shoe, thereby allowing a more snug and customized fit so that climbers have the option to navigate technical terrain with more precision. Approach shoes are a very niche design, and our testers have identified the best application for the various options available today. Before you purchase your first or next pair, we recommend considering exactly what you hope to get out of the design, a few specific applications are listed below.
The sticky Vibram Mega-Grip and IdroGrip outsole of the TX Guide gave us confidence under foot during numerous objectives.
Credit: Kira Ratcliffe
Credit: La Sportiva
Alpine Missions: Alpine missions without technical approaches or moderate and easy scrambles are two other great applications for approach shoes. On days where the objective climbing is moderate fifth class, many climbers will opt for an approach shoe with excellent climbing ability so as to save their feet from being inside a tight rock climbing shoe for the entire duration of the day. For this scenario, a versatile shoe that supplies climbing performance as well as comfort during the hike is essential. For those more technical alpine approaches or high mountain traverses, consider an approach shoe that offers enough protection during off-trail travel as well as substantial durability to take on the sharp rocks and talus fields you'll encounter along the way.
The TX Guide is our favorite for long traverses and alpine objectives as they offer exceptional climbing ability and hiking performance.
Credit: Trish Matheny
Credit: La Sportiva
Descents: Descents are another great application for approach shoes. While hiking shoes or trail runners can often get you to the base, a technical walk off can be another story. Whether you're ascending a multi-pitch rock climb with a walk off descent rather than a rappel or simply summiting a dome and need to descend a slab back down to the base, sticky rubber can often enhance the experience. For multi-pitch rock climbs, we recommend a lightweight approach shoe that can either be clipped to your harness or stuffed into the follower's backpack. Lightweight and minimal shoes (think mesh uppers) are often the perfect shoe to get the job done without weighing you down and detracting from your climbing performance.
Lightweight designs, like the TX2 Evo, are perfect for short approaches and walk off descents.
Credit: Gus Landefeld
Big Wall Climbing: While not every climber will seek a big wall objective, there are a few details to consider before selecting an approach shoe that's up to the task. Whether you're on the sharp end or following with jumars, climbers ascending aid routes on big walls like El Capitan, will focus less on the overall weight of the shoe, and rather prioritize a super stiff midsole and well-constructed design that can withstand the workload. And while support and durability are key considerations, climbing performance should also be high on the list, so that you can perform those occasional free climbing moves without having to swap from your approach shoes to your free climbing shoes. Durable leather constructions with a beefy toe cap and a substantial rand are a great choice for big wall climbing.
Heavier leather designs, like the TX4 Evo, that feature lots of protection for the foot make an excellent choice for big wall objectives
Credit: Gus Landefeld
Conclusion
In the mountains, on big walls, and over boulder fields, we tested each of these approach shoes side-by-side with direct competitors. We gathered solid field data to support our findings, and our expert testers spent months compiling this research to bring you the most comprehensive review of women's approach shoes available. Whether you're a casual climber walking trails to your favorite crag or planning to tackle miles of bushwhacking to a backcountry big wall, we hope our review helps you find the perfect shoe for your needs and budget.
We tested approach shoes all over the globe (pictured here in the Scarpa Crux) and hope that our extensive research and testing perspectives helps you select the best approach shoe for your next adventure.
