The 5 Best Mountaineering Backpacks

Best Overall Mountaineering and Alpine Model

Osprey Mutant 38

$200 at REI (before member cash back!)

$200 at Backcountry

$200 at Amazon

Once again, we've chosen the ever-impressive Osprey Mutant 38 as our favorite mountaineering backpack. This pack seems to get better with every mutation, with improvements to utility, versatility, durability, and climbing comfort. This is a pack that can morph from a gear-hauling beast to a light and nimble summit pack in mere moments. It has an excellent suspension for heavier loads and logical and useful climbing features for technical pitches.

Many climbers still retain some skepticism toward Osprey as a manufacturer for technical climbing packs. We did, too. Some of their packs have too many features and so many straps that they slap you in the face when you're on the hardest part of the climb (classic). This pack has more features than some, but it can be slimmed down to become comparable with the simplest and lightest packs in this review. Overall, this is an excellent update to an already awesome mountaineering pack. For a larger capacity, take a look at the Osprey Mutant 52, which fills a void in our backpack quiver as the most comfortable pack of its size. The Mutant series is now relevant to longer and more complex, colder, or more gear-intensive climbs.

Read more: Osprey Mutant 38 review

Best Bang for Your Buck

Black Diamond Blitz 28L

Read the Review

The Black Diamond Blitz 28 is an excellent and affordable addition to your mountaineering pack quiver. This pack is simple, light, and small — making it an excellent companion on routes where you are pushing your grades and trying hard. This is the only pack tested here that we'd consider taking into the mountains as well as on long multi-pitch rock routes, using it similarly to a small on-route climbing backpack like the old Black Diamond Bullet or Petzl Bug.

We have a few bones to pick with this pack. Mainly, it's not the most durable and lacks the versatility you need for all types of mountaineering. It's unlikely you would want to take this pack ski mountaineering, though you may enjoy its lightweight simplicity for a mellow day of backcountry skiing. Also, be careful how you pack the bag to avoid creating too much abrasion from protruding objects. Considering everything, the Black Diamond Blitz is noteworthy for filling a valuable niche at a decent price. Still, those who want to invest in a mountaineering backpack that can take a beating on the climb should look at other options like the Osprey Mutant 38. It was one of the best performers in our durability testing.

Read more: Black Diamond Blitz 28 review

Best for Cold Technical Climbs

Hyperlite Prism

$425 at Backcountry

$425 at Hyperlite Mountain Gear

The Hyperlite Prism would be number one if it could manage warm, humid environments better — but we're not saying that Hyperlite needs to address these issues. The benefits (and value) far outweigh any sweaty back issues. It just means this may not be your quiver-of-one backpack. The Prism has completely refracted our idea of how comfortable a technical climbing backpack can be and how fresh we can feel after a long and heavy haul to basecamp. The simple design blows our minds. This is a pack chosen by many guides who just can't afford to beat up their bodies anymore with heavy, cumbersome, awkward, and overall damaging backpacks. The price in dollars is much more affordable than the price we pay in injury to our bodies.

So, that brings us to the only real downside to HMG packs in general: the price. The pack will cost you, but those getting out a lot in cooler alpine environments will find the Prism is an excellent investment for longevity and enjoyment. The pack comes optimized for technical alpine climbing with a crampon pouch, a low-profile wand/picket pocket, simple side straps, and a removable lid. Versatile, comfortable, durable, high performing, and kind to our bodies, the Prism is all you need in a long-term climbing companion. However, we know the steep price can be a limiting factor. So those shopping on a budget should direct their attention toward our favorite value pick, the Black Diamond Blitz 28.

Read more: Hyperlite Prism review

Best All-Rounder

Black Diamond Speed 40

$205 at Backcountry

The Speed packs from Black Diamond are another series of packs that we love — one for all of your moods or objectives. We think this 40-liter version of the Speed hits the sweet spot for versatility and carrying comfort. This is as close to an all-star pack-of-all-trades as we have ever found, and for an excellent price. The features are simple but complete and will handle any of the tools you need in the mountains. The materials are durable yet lightweight.

There are just a couple of troubling features, though they aren't deal-breakers. The top strap slides through to either side, presumably to allow you to extend one side more than the other for bulky, light items. However, the bottom strap doesn't extend similarly, so we didn't find this feature useful. And the ice tool attachment secures both tools at once, another feature we don't like. We prefer being able to deploy one tool at a time without messing with the other one. But all said, this is an excellent, durable, versatile, simple, and very affordable mountaineering pack that we highly recommend. If you want a pack with well-designed features, we recommend considering the Osprey Mutant 38. Not only is it feature-rich, but you can remove your ice axe with just one hand while still wearing the pack.

Read more: Black Diamond Speed 40 review

Best for Expeditions

Gregory Denali 100

$440 at Amazon

The Gregory Denali 100 shines for its comfort and versatility on expeditions. We appreciate the Denali for how comfortably it sits on the back and the fact that it does not impede your view or range of motion in the places where it rises above your head. We also like the snow-specific features since most packs of this size will likely encounter snow at some point during an expedition. And, when packed well, it feels secure and streamlined while still allowing easy access to items via large zippered sleeves and pockets.

On the downside, this pack is far from featherweight, and we felt some of the features were not super well-designed, like the ice axe velcro attachment, which is connected to the buckle for the side strap. Its huge carrying capacity (100 liters!) also means it's only suited for burlier expeditions. Bottom line, Gregory built this pack for its namesake Denali, and it does that job well. But if you're packing light and want a smaller capacity, the Black Diamond Blitz 28 may suit you just right.

Read more: Gregory Denali 100 review

Compare Products

Compare select up to 5 products to compare

	Score	Product	Price
	79	Osprey Mutant 38 Best Overall Mountaineering and Alpine Model	$200
	70	Hyperlite Prism Best for Cold Technical Climbs	$425
	65	Black Diamond Speed 40 Best All-Rounder	$205
	62	Black Diamond Blitz 28L Best Bang for Your Buck	$110
	61	Osprey Mutant 52L	$230
	56	Ortovox Peak Light 32L	$200
	53	Patagonia Ascensionist 55	$289
	51	Gregory Denali 100 Best for Expeditions	$440
	48	Gregory Alpinisto LT 38	$180

Why Trust GearLab

We poured hours of research into our selection process for these packs, choosing the most promising models to purchase at retail price and put to the test. Traveling and climbing mountains for years, our team of experts has used and abused a lot of packs. They've seen the changes in technology, design, and features and know exactly what works and what's just marketing hype. We wore the packs in this review through all manner of terrain and temperatures, on overnights, summit bids, approaches, and descents. From light and fast to heavy and extended, we present an unbiased and critical assessment of the best options for your next mountaineering pack.

• Versatility (30% of total score weighting)

• Weight to Volume Ratio (20% weighting)

• Comfort (20% weighting)

• Durability (15% weighting)

• Features (15% weighting)

This comprehensive and detailed review is led by Lyra Pierotti, a certified AMGA Rock Guide and AIARE Avalanche Course Leader. As you might imagine, Lyra spends a ton of time in the mountains and carrying a pack. She's taken on peaks all over the world, from Alaska to Argentina, and also helps coach others to achieve their mountaintop aspirations as an NSCA Certified Strength and Conditioning Specialist (CSCS). Her passion for this work runs deep and, with more than a decade of experience, she's an ideal expert to spearhead this review.

Analysis and Test Results

This is a review of mountaineering backpacks for technical alpine climbing. The packs are equipped with features useful for everything from traditional mountaineering with ice axes and crampons to alpine rock climbs, ice climbs, or even ski mountaineering. The main difference between these packs and those found in our best backpacking backpack review is in the feature set. Mountaineering packs are designed to carry crampons, ice axes, ice tools, ropes, and potentially skis. They also vary in shape, size, and carrying comfort.

Mountaineering packs are often identifiable by their svelte exterior. They sport minimal straps or excess material that can whack you in the face when it's windy up high on a ridge. They are more streamlined and hug close to your body to improve mobility and climbing comfort, and they are made of light but durable materials. They don't have lots of pockets, straps, access points, or beefy suspensions.

The ideal alpine climbing pack for most venues in the U.S. should be relatively easy to overstuff with several days worth of food and basecamp necessities. Then it must be able to slim down for technical climbing. We want a pack to be streamlined for climbing, but we don't want to be so beaten up from carrying an awkward load to basecamp that we are aching during the climb itself.

What's the Best Value?

Our performance scores aim to shake out the best packs from the mediocre ones. Just like cream, the best rise to the top of the chart. These performance scores, however, do not take price into account. Rather, we want to know what the best packs are without biasing our assessment due to the price tag.

After we figure out which packs are our winners, it's time to figure out just how much you want to spend and how much versatility your pack needs to provide. The top-scoring Osprey Mutant 38 offers excellent value with its performance that soared above the rest at an almost shockingly low price. It's truly an incredible pack. The Black Diamond Speed 40 excels at everything from laidback crag days to hardcore summit bids, and it can significantly cut back the number of packs you might need in your collection, also for a more-than-fair price. The Black Diamond Blitz 28 is more optimized for shorter missions and while on-route, but the price can't be beat if it fits your needs.

Versatility

Our testers demand a lot from their climbing packs. We want them to be comfortable hauling loads on the approach but not hinder our movement once we're on route. We scored each pack based on its ability to adapt. Versatility also influences whether you'll have to buy three packs for all your adventuring needs or if you can get away with one Jack- or Jill-of-all-trades. Or pack-of-all-trades.

The Osprey Mutant 38 took the cake when it came to versatility. It earned top scores by remaining impressively comfortable when hauling heavy loads and is able to shift effortlessly onto technical terrain. If you prefer something a little simpler, however, you might consider the Black Diamond Speed 40.

If you find that you love the 38-liter pack size, but you consistently stuff it to the brim, give a look at the next volume up from Osprey, the Mutant 52. Although it doesn't climb on route quite as well as its smaller cousins, the 38 and 22-liter versions, it does very well on longer trips and more complex, gear-heavy climbs.

Some packs allow you to remove the framesheet to reduce weight or to use as an emergency foam sleeping pad. For larger models, this can be an excellent feature to know about. We especially liked this feature on the Gregory Denali 100 since you will want to take a foam pad with you on summit day on most high-altitude expeditions. This pad is integrated into the Denali and means one less item to add to your summit pack.

The Ortovox Peak Light 32 is very well optimized for ski mountaineering, making it a bit less versatile but very well suited to its purpose. The Gregory Alpinisto LT 38 has an interesting back panel with just a single horizontal stay. It wasn't versatile in terms of weight and load, but we found it carried well in technical terrain.

Weight to Volume Ratio

Mountaineering is a physically and technically demanding sport. It forces you to carry everything necessary to survive in a harsh mountain environment with you at all times. It's a delicate balance; carrying too much weight or a load that's too bulky can compromise your balance on technical maneuvers or deplete your energy stores. This means the weight of your pack and the volume it can comfortably carry is of the utmost importance.

We list each pack's weight-to-volume ratio. But we didn't take the manufacturer's word for it. We measured the volume ourselves with the help of hundreds of ping-pong balls to get an apples-to-apples (or pings-to-pongs) sense of what each pack could handle. We also measured the weights ourselves with a digital hanging scale.

Due to the differences in volumes between packs, it's possible that a smaller model made from heavier materials could still be lighter than a more substantial contender built from lighter-weight materials. To account for this, we use a weight-to-volume ratio to help us better compare the pack weights irrespective of pack size. We measured the weight of the whole pack in grams (g) and volume of the main compartment in liters (L) (note: we did not include the volume of the lid or any pockets because loading pockets can throw off a pack's balance). This helped normalize our measurements across all manufacturers because some report volume with pockets included, while others do not. This score shakes out when we get to features, where packs with lots of pockets scored higher in an objective sense. If you hate pockets, you can look with skepticism upon a highly featured pack.

For a more realistic test, we also assembled a sample kit for a weekend of summer alpine climbing. We then tried to pack this gear into each of the packs. Although this test was less useful for the expedition packs, which gobbled up all the equipment and then some, it gave us an intuitive visual way to compare practical volume. It also helped us to evaluate attachment systems for crampons, ice axes, poles, ropes, helmets, etc.

For this review, we measured the weight of the Osprey Mutant 38 without the lid. Due to the increasing number of packs that forgo lids, we felt the added weight was an unfair penalty to the Mutant, especially since the lid can be removed and the FlapJacket deployed. For the 52-liter Mutant, we left the lid on because it is a larger pack designed for more carrying capacity. The Black Diamond Blitz 28 stole the show in this category for being impressively lightweight for its volume. Though limited in scope, if you're looking for the lightest on-route pack, this might be the one.

Comfort

There are two important components to mountaineering pack comfort --comfort on the approach and comfort on the climb. Smaller packs with flexible (or minimal) framesheets tend to be more comfortable on technical climbs than larger, beefier packs. Larger packs, in contrast, usually have more substantial suspension systems, framesheets, stays, and padding. These tend to make the approach more comfortable than an overloaded fast-and-light pack but can feel stiff and cumbersome on technical rock and ice routes.

We are seeing more and more mountaineering backpack models with flat back panels and simple suspension systems. Pack manufacturers are sometimes eliminating the lid and even the load lifter straps on top of the shoulder straps. At first, we were skeptical, worrying that this design change would boost climbing performance at the expense of comfort on the approach. As we found out, however, this is not entirely true.

First, let's point out that the more traditional Osprey Mutant 38 is still the most comfortable with heavy loads. It has a minimal frame but can carry up to 50 pounds with ease (as easy as carrying 50 pounds on your back can be, anyway).

Let's also look at the impressive performance of the other top category scorers, the Hyperlite Prism and Osprey Mutant 52. The Mutant 52 is essentially a scaled-up version of the 38. But the Prism is impressively simple. There is only a single removable stay in the center of the back panel, and that panel is sewn in place to the material of the pack. The hip belt is removable and rests relatively flush against the pack, and there are no load lifter straps — the brain attaches instead to the uppermost part of the shoulder straps. Very interesting. The Prism is notable for its fairly narrow profile for a pack with a nearly 50-liter capacity. The light weight, firm foam, and slim profile of the Prism are a winning combo that makes it one of the most comfortable we've tested, whether under heavy load or trimmed down for fast-and-light ascents.

To better help us understand why this flat back panel design in climbing packs works, we consulted with a physical therapist and climber who helped us make sense of it. To summarize, traditional packs with lumbar support push your spine into extension, which is a strong structural position for those unaccustomed to carrying a backpack. It doesn't work as well, however, for fit alpine climbers more accustomed to carrying moderate weight on their backs. Instead, that backpacking pack design locks our bodies in an extended position, making it harder to flex and rotate. Greater mobility, in contrast, allows us to fully exhale, rotate our torso more thoroughly, and tilt our pelvis backward, making high stepping much easier. This means you have to fight against the shape and structure of the pack much less — thus saving energy over the course of a long climb.

Another critical reason why these simple pack designs seem to work is the concurrent increase in ultralight, durable climbing equipment — particularly sleeping pads, sleeping bags, and shelters. Add all of this together, and we can go further while carrying less weight.

Durability

Offwidths and mixed chimneys, bushwhacking, careless crampon use, stuffing bags to their gills — alpine climbing can subject a pack to all sorts of wear and tear. But when our testers are in the mountains, they like to focus on climbing instead of babying their equipment.

Fabric durability is commonly assessed using a “denier” number, which is the linear mass density of fibers. In other words, a higher denier number usually denotes a thicker, more durable fabric. A lower number will be thinner and typically lighter weight. This rating, however, doesn't tell the whole story. The primary durability issue for mountaineering backpacks is their fabrics' abrasion resistance. Manufacturing techniques, terms, and treatments can make this tricky to parse out.

Hyperlite Mountain Gear packs are made of Dyneema Composite Fabrics (formerly Cuben fiber), which are exceptionally lightweight, strong, waterproof (before stitching), and UV resistant. To improve resistance to abrasion, their backpacks feature Dyneema Composite Hybrids, where more abrasion-resistant face fabrics are laminated with the Dyneema Composite Fabric backing. The Hyperlite Prism is an exceptional example of the company's craftsmanship.

Many pack manufacturers use fabrics with a lower denier on the sides and top of the pack to save weight. Higher denier fabrics are placed on high-impact areas like the pack's bottom and crampon pouches. However, we find that when climbing in typical alpine terrain, the sides of the pack do get scratched up. The only part of a pack that really seems to not see abuse is the part that's against your back.

Of more concern in the durability department is the strain put on specific areas of the pack due to design and construction. We inspected each model for notable stress points and any stitching that looked like it might give out over time. Will the compression straps tear out of their seams under bulging loads? Does that initially cushy hip belt wimp out over time? Imagine a worst-case scenario: you arrive at the belay, clip your pack to the anchor by its haul loop, only to have that rip out, and your pack fall hundreds of feet to the deck.

The Patagonia Ascensionist 55 is a durable pack — after lots of field testing, it definitely showed some wear and tear, but there weren't any notable stress points. Our top score goes to the Osprey Mutant 38.

Features

Simplicity can be a great feature in a climbing pack. Well-designed alpine climbing packs are more streamlined than your standard backpack. Unnecessary features add weight and complexity while only amplifying the number of things you can break. For this reason, we gave points to packs that provided only the features necessary to complement the design of the pack.

On the flip side, as long as the pack features are useful and don't detract from functionality, we rate the pack highly in this metric. As such, Osprey hit a home run with the Mutant 38. Osprey has a long history of making packs with excess features, often to the dismay of climbers who want a simple cylinder with minimal straps. The Mutant has both surprised and pleased many climbers and mountain guides, allaying years of accumulated skepticism with the well-designed, durable, versatile, and impressively comfortable Mutant.

Ortovox introduced an interesting take on features for ski mountaineering with their Peak Light 32. Although it ultimately wasn't a competitive pack in our review, it still fit its purposes very well with durable materials, a front access zipper, and an extra ice axe holster on the front of the shoulder strap.

Conclusion

Finding the ideal mountaineering backpack for your needs is a complex calculation of utility, durability, and comfort. Our testing metrics attempt to weigh several of the most important qualities of a mountaineering pack. We spent months comparing them, side-by-side, as objectively as possible. We hope that the descriptions of our experiences in the field help you to zero in on the pack of your dreams.

Keep in mind that our top-scoring packs, like the Osprey Mutant 38 or Hyperlite Prism, may not suit your needs perfectly. Be sure to check out packs that score the highest in the metrics you care about the most. We have also included a wide variety of pack types in this review, but our metrics still reflect a solid performance for each pack in its specific niche of mountaineering. For example, we didn't disadvantage expedition packs for being bigger. We assess relative sizes by looking at weight-to-volume ratios to better describe the quality of materials and thoughtfulness of design.